I’d like to preface this article by mentioning that wrist pain is certainly not exclusive to climbers or athletes. Please book an appointment with me if you’ve been dealing with nagging wrist pain and would like to find resolution.
Wrist pain is a common issue among climbers, often resulting from the unique stress placed on them while climbing. I’m sure you’ve seen plenty of climbers with tape on the wrists or using a wrist widget. Wrist injuries can be some of the most frustrating and psychologically taxing climbing related injuries. Whether you’re a veteran climber or just starting out, understanding the causes and potential solutions for wrist pain can help keep you on the rock and away from injury.
What might I have injured?
Although there are tendons that travel along both sides of the wrist, tendon injuries at the wrist joint itself are not as common as ligament injuries. Unlike the shoulder joint, the wrist joint is quite complex as there are many bones that make up the joint, and all of these bones are held together by ligaments. The wrist is also unique in that it has what is called the TFCC, which stands for triangular fibrocartilage complex. This complex is made up of a special fibrocartilaginous disc as well as multiple ligaments. Injuries to the TFCC are relatively common and can be difficult to manage. This is the type of injury that you want to seek professional help for as soon as possible. A medical provider can perform the necessary orthopedic tests, determine if you need imaging such as an MRI, and the appropriate next steps.
Why does my wrist hurt?
- Repetitive Stress: Certain styles of climbing and particular grip types such as slopers can cause strains to the ligaments of the wrist. This is particularly true for climbers who frequently train or push their limits without adequate rest as well. We’ve also seen increase in wrist injuries due to the modern gym bouldering style that features large volumes, slopers, and comp-style movements. Side-pulls can cause the wrist to move into a position that can be especially bothersome for some climbers as well. This also applies to under-clings.
- Slopers that put the wrist in flexion can be especially problematic for certain folks, as this is the most “loose packed” and unstable position when compared to wrist extension
- Acute injury: Acute injury to ligaments of the wrist and the triangular fibrocartilage complex (aka TFCC) from an intense move or a fall on an outstretched hand.
- Anatomical Factors: Some climbers may have natural predispositions that make them more susceptible to wrist issues, such as joint hypermobility or previous injuries. If this is your case, there’s a lot that can be done to decrease your likelihood of injury.
- Overtraining: Too much climbing or training without adequate rest between sessions.
Prevention Strategies
- Strength Training: Weightlifting coupled with the use of devices such as the wrist wrench or a 3.5inch “ninja ball” type device for off the ground pick-ups to load the wrist in a safe and controlled manner. I don’t agree with conventional recommendations around merely utilizing dumbbell curls or basic physical therapy exercises for climbers. While they do have their place in the earlier stages of injury or if pain levels are high, we ultimately need smarter and more effective ways to strengthen the wrists and build back confidence without the exercise itself being uncomfortable and scary.
- Options for loading the wrist:
- Dumbbell isometric holds with neutral wrist
- Wrist wrench off the ground lifts with a lifting pin
- Ninja ball off the ground lifts with lifting pin
- Remember that all basic strength training exercises (bench press, shoulder press, lateral raises, deadlift, rows, etc) do load the wrist. If the weight is right, then the load will be therapeutic.
- Options for loading the wrist:
- Variation: Vary your grip types throughout your sessions. Be mindful if you’re projecting a route or boulder and you’re feeling tweaky from a particular hold or sequence.
- Learn when enough is enough: This is critical and extends beyond wrist health. Climbers nearly always overdo it in some capacity. Once your power output is down and you lose coordination, it’s time to stop the session. Continuing to climb when you’re fatigued and powered out is a recipe for injury.
- Rest and Recovery: Don’t underestimate the importance of rest days. Give your wrists time to recover, especially after intense climbing sessions.
Conclusion
Wrist pain can be a frustrating barrier to your climbing progression but understanding its causes and implementing the right strategies can help you stay on the wall and achieve your goals. I’ve dealt with a serious wrist injury myself, so I understand just how challenging these can be. Even in serious cases, there’s always hope for making a full, strong recovery. Book an appointment with me to learn more.
Meet Dr. Arvin Ghanevati
Dr. G’s approach to medicine is rooted in vitalistic naturopathic philosophy that focuses on the body’s innate ability to heal and the fundamentals of health (nutrition, movement, mental-emotional wellbeing, lymphatic flow, toxic burden, and sleep hygiene). Being an overzealous, psyched climber himself, he has plenty of firsthand experience with both acute and chronic climbing related injuries and looks forward to helping you recover as quickly as possible and prevent future injuries. Dr. Arvin Ghanevati is a licensed naturopathic doctor, musculoskeletal specialist, homeopath, and sports medic practicing in Portland, Oregon.
