I’d like to preface this article by mentioning that shoulder pain is certainly not exclusive to climbers or athletes. Don’t hesitate to book an appointment with me if you’ve been dealing with nagging shoulder pain and would like to find resolution.
Shoulder injuries are a prevalent concern among climbers due to how much our sport relies on shoulder strength, mobility, and stability. The shoulder is one of the most mobile joints in the body. It’s quite impressive what a healthy shoulder can do. Although the shoulder is often described as a ball and socket joint, it is much more like a golf ball on a tee. Because of its relatively precarious nature, the joint can be subjected to various injuries, and has the greatest predisposition for dislocation than other joints in the body. The rotator cuff is also subject to injury since it is constantly trying to maintain joint stability while we climb. There’s also the “AC” joint which can be subjected to sprains.
Common Causes of Shoulder Pain in Climbers
- Repetitive stress injury or acute injury of the rotator cuff, biceps tendon, bursa, labrum, or ligaments that form the joint capsule.
- Weakness of muscles such as the deltoids, pectoralis, trapezius, rotator cuff, and scapular stabilizers.
- Shoulder impingement syndrome: Bursae or tendon issues that decrease space within the joint and cause pain and or decrease range of motion.
- Poor technique: This can be quite extensive but a few examples include an over reliance on passive stabilizers of the shoulder as opposed to engaged muscles, or cutting feet when you can keep feet on and maintain body tension.
Potential signs of current or past injury
- Pain: Persistent discomfort, especially after climbing or during specific movements.
- Feeling of joint instability: Feeling that your shoulder joint moves around in an abnormal way, clunks in and out, or feels like it will dislocate.
- Swelling and Inflammation: Noticeable swelling around the shoulder joint may indicate injury or inflammation.
- Limited Range of Motion: Difficulty lifting the arm or performing overhead movements can signal a problem.
Prevention Strategies
- Strength training: Basic, stable lifts that can be progressively overloaded to increase muscle recruitment are an excellent way to build healthy shoulders that can tolerate the demands of our sport. Examples include shoulder press, bench press, lateral dumbbell raise, deadlift, face pulls, and cable machine rows.
- Proper Technique: Work on refining your climbing technique. I can give tips on common pitfalls that can factor into shoulder issues but analyzing videos of your climbing and consulting with a coach can help you avoid injury. There are also plenty of online resources and videos on climbing technique. Knowing when to move statically and when to move dynamically. For example, excessive or unnecessary dynamic climbing or overreliance on deep lock offs when moving fluidly and more dynamic is more efficient.
- Warm-Up and Stretching: Always start with a proper warm-up that includes dynamic stretching for the shoulders. This prepares the muscles and joints for the demands of climbing.
- Gradual Progression: Increase your climbing intensity and volume gradually. Allow your body to adapt to the stresses of climbing to reduce the risk of repetitive stress injuries.
- Rest and Recovery: Prioritize rest days and listen to your body.
What to Do If You Experience Shoulder Pain
- See a qualified healthcare professional: Work with a provider who can thoroughly assess your shoulder to diagnose what’s going on and create an appropriate treatment plan. Depending on the type of pain, it’s important to assess the neck to make sure that there isn’t a nerve impingement that’s the root cause.
- If your pain is due to a shoulder dislocation or you have a history of dislocation or instability, I highly recommend that you do not put off seeking medical care. Shoulder dislocations typically result in significant instability that makes you at risk of recurrent dislocation.
- Make temporary modifications to your climbing while you get things under control:
- Be mindful of how your activities, climbing and training affects your pain.
- Shift from only doing or prioritizing calisthenic exercises such as pull ups and push-ups to strength training with weights to increase recruitment and develop stronger shoulders as opposed to shoulders that can simply tolerate a higher volume of lower intensity calisthenics.
- Avoid excessive climbing volume. Keep sessions short and leave with gas in the tank.
- Beware of risk associated with high velocity moves if you’re experiencing pain (high velocity: dynos, jump & latch style board climbing, stretched out dead points/compression moves)
Depending on your case, you can indeed continue to climb. This is nuanced and best to be guided by a climbing focused medical provider.
Conclusion
Shoulder pain doesn’t have to be a barrier to your climbing ambitions. By understanding its causes and implementing effective prevention strategies, you can protect your shoulders and enjoy a long, active climbing career. Remember, listening to your body and seeking professional help when needed is key to staying safe and thriving on the wall.
Meet Dr. Arvin Ghanevati
Dr. G’s approach to medicine is rooted in vitalistic naturopathic philosophy that focuses on the body’s innate ability to heal and the fundamentals of health (nutrition, movement, mental-emotional wellbeing, lymphatic flow, toxic burden, and sleep hygiene). Being an overzealous, psyched climber himself, he has plenty of firsthand experience with both acute and chronic climbing related injuries and looks forward to helping you recover as quickly as possible and prevent future injuries. Dr. Arvin Ghanevati is a licensed naturopathic doctor, musculoskeletal specialist, homeopath, and sports medic practicing in Portland, Oregon.
